While pedaling through Nepal’s diverse and often dramatic landscapes, I’ve come across many fascinating landmarks—but few as captivating as the Seti Devi Mata Shrine, better known as the Mulkot Mirror Wall. Tucked along the sinuous BP Koirala Highway, this shimmering wall of reflections brought my ride to a sudden pause. It wasn’t just the spectacle of thousands of mirrors glinting in the sun—it was the story they hold.
Located along what’s also known as the Banepa–Sindhuli–Bardibas Road, the shrine is easily visible around the bends, thanks to countless small mirrors glinting in the sunlight along a retaining wall. These mirrors are not merely decorative—they are devotional offerings to the goddess Seti Devi Mata. Travelers, particularly drivers navigating this treacherous stretch, believe that placing a mirror here invokes her protection for a safe journey.
This unique tradition has roots in both tragedy and local legend. After a series of fatal accidents on the newly constructed highway, locals began praying for divine intervention. According to legend, the goddess appeared in a local’s dream, expressing displeasure that vehicles were driving over her. Her original shrine was located at the base of the mountain. In response to her divine grievance, the villagers relocated the shrine to its current position along the highway. To make her feel at home—and to honor her—they began placing mirrors so she could see her reflection and recognize her new abode.
Over time, this act of reverence evolved into a collective ritual. Today, both locals and travelers continue the tradition—each mirror a silent prayer, a plea for safety, and a mark of respect for the mountain’s spiritual guardian.
Though only 98 miles long, the BP Koirala Highway is no ordinary road. Linking the Kathmandu Valley with the Eastern Terai, it cuts through rugged Himalayan terrain prone to landslides and earthquakes. Its construction, aided by Japan, took 19 years to complete. Technically one of Nepal’s most advanced roads, it remains among Asia’s most perilous routes.
Cycling along this dramatic road, with the mirror wall sparkling under the sun and prayer flags fluttering in the wind, I was reminded of how culture, faith, and infrastructure often intersect in the most unexpected ways. The Mulkot Mirror Wall isn’t just a roadside shrine—it’s a spiritual checkpoint, a place where devotion meets danger, and where every reflection tells a story.
