“Investment in travel is an investment in yourself.”
Hi!
I’ll be sharing my month-long solo cycling journey through the picturesque hill stations of Kurseong, Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok, which started and ended in Siliguri. This travelogue is organised into four sections and will include information on my journey, where I stayed, and what I saw and did. So, keep reading and enjoy the ride!
The pandemic has caused significant disruptions to everyone’s vacation plans, including mine. After two years stuck at home, I decided to take a break and go on another trip to Sikkim. Darjeeling and Kalimpong had always been on my list of places to visit, and while researching, I came across blogs and videos from people who had cycled there.
You can read about my earlier travels to Sikkim by clicking this link:
http://letstravel.barretomiranda.com/lets-travel-to-sikkim/
Why cycling???
The distance between each hill station was less than 100 kms, making it a relatively reasonable ride. So I thought, “WHY NOT”. The only challenge was the steep elevation.
The route I chose was
Siliguri to Kurseong : 50kms
Kurseong to Darjeeling : 45kms
Darjeeling to Kalimpong : 55kms
Kalimpong to Gangtok : 85kms
Gangtok to Siliguri : 115kms
Time and duration of the trip
Since I was travelling solo, my plan was to spend a few days in each location seeing “The Must See Things” before cycling to the next destination. My only goal was to reach Gangtok by November 5th, and if not, then I had to be there by the 15th.
Why solo?
Solo travel gives the ultimate freedom. It allowed me to create my own schedule of everything I want to do, including when and how I want to do it!
“The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready.”
# Oct 26:
The adventure starts – Reaching Siliguri.
I left Goa by Indigo on October 26th night and arrived in Bagdogra at 9.30am the next day, after a six hour stopover in Delhi. Then a 20kms taxi drive to Siliguri.
Taking the cycle by plane
Indigo charges Rs. 1200/- for large size bag / box / sports equipment, plus Rs 500 for each kilo over 15 kgs. You can save money as they offer a discount if you pay online via their website for the large size or extra weight.
Make sure you pack your equipment properly, as the handling personnel are reckless and take no care.
# Oct 27:
I stayed at Apple’s Balaji Inn
(its in the centre of Siliguri, around 20km from the airport). Cost per day: Rs. 1300/- including breakfast. The room and bathroom was sanitized and clean. It had an air conditioner, a television and a hot shower. Good restaurant and staff was courteous.
I had booked this hotel as it was close to Bhaichung Bhutia’s petrol pump where I had to drop my bags to be sent to Gangtok.
I assembled the cycle at the hotel and in the afternoon, took it to Freewheels Cycle Shop (Shekhar – ph: 7478093333) for a final tune-up. The shop is located directly across from the P.C. Mittal bus terminal. At the shop, I met Krishna Ghosal, an amazing 15-year-old, and he invited me to ride with him to Rongtong railway station the next morning.
# Oct 28:
We left at 5.30am, passing through tea estates and the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary before arriving at the Rongtong railway station, where I met fellow riders at a tea shop who advised me to take this same Hill Cart route to Kurseong because the one via Rohini is very steep and has a lot of vehicle traffic.
(l) Rongtong railway station; (c) Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary (r) with Krishna Ghosal at Sepoy Dhura Tea Garden, Choutara
# Oct 29:
All set to go on my first solo cycling adventure.
I left the hotel at 5.49 am, using the same route as the day before to Rongtong, and then followed the railway track to Kurseong along NH 55.
45 kms to Kurseong
The route was scenic, with a large portion of it being shaded by trees. The ascent was gentle and enjoyable to ride on.
The only problem was the railway tracks that criss-cross the road numerous times, which worked as speed breakers. I lost count after a while, but there must have been over 50 that I went over. Furthermore, most roads in West Bengal have stones embedded in them, which I had to constantly avoid so that the sharp edges did not puncture the tyres.
Some photos I clicked along the way.
Sukna Railway Station
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) Museum at Sukna was setup in September 2005. This is the third DHR museum after the ones in Ghoom and Kurseong. Unfortunately, on both occasions, I passed the museum early in the morning, when it was closed.
https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_00009f.htm
Rongtong Railway Station
Chunbhatti Loop and Agony Point
Tindharia
It was developed for the purpose of a railway workshop for the maintenance of locomotives, carriages and waggons of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. Tindharia is now the only full time workshop for steam locos in India – and one of very few left in the World where they are completely dismantled, overhauled and rebuilt every 4 years.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tindharia
All along the way, there were numerous springs and waterfalls where I could refresh myself.
The first sign welcoming to Kurseong.
1 km to my first destination.
Kurseong – the land of white orchids
The town was originally called Kharsang, which means “Land of the White Orchids” in the Lepcha language, because every spring it is ablaze with Kurson-Rip orchids. However, over time, the name has changed and is now known as Kurseong.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurseong
Kurseong Railway Station
I stayed at Kurseong Tourist Lodge – a West Bengal Govt. property
(conveniently located, on the main road, 1 km from the railway station)
Cost per day: Rs. 1200/- including breakfast. Room and bathroom were clean. TV and Hot shower.
Average restaurant. Lazy staff. Opens only at 8am.
Hotel booking can only be done online at: www.wbtdcl.com
# Oct 30
The sun rises early in these parts of the country, and it is bright by 5am. I got up early and went on a 2.8km trek up the mountain to the Hanuman statue that overlooks the town. In Kurseong, tea estates stretch as far as the eye can see and some of the most expensive tea is produced here.
In the afternoon, I went to the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Museum. Photographs, letters, and other memorabilia of the Indian Freedom Movement, as well as a few personal belongings of Netaji and the Bose family, are displayed in the museum. This house belonged to Netaji’s elder brother, Sarat Chandra Bose, who bought it in June 1922 from an Englishman, Rowley Lascelles Ward.
Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside.
https://www.getbengal.com/details/netaji-sent-written-messages-in-bread-slices-through-his-attendant
The second I LOVE KURSEONG sign is on the Rohini road
Going down was exhilarating, coming up the 3.5 kms steep climb was challenging.
Giddapahar
This viewpoint offers a panoramic view of the tea estates and mountain ranges. Its next to the museum.
# Oct 31
Kurseong Railway Museum
On display are interesting and well-preserved railway-related objects.
The Red Panda train operates between Kurseong and Darjeeling on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.
FYI. The Red Panda is the official state animal of Sikkim.
Junction opposite the railway station.
Eagle’s Craig is a small park perched on a hilltop. A panoramic view of Kurseong can be seen from the watchtower. A memorial dedicated to Gorkha soldiers. A replica of the kukri, a staple weapon of all Gurkha military regiments and units throughout the world, is fixed on top of the monument.
St. Paul The Apostle’s Church
The church was built in 1905 to serve the spiritual needs of the Catholics of Kurseong.
Its just opposite the hotel.
St. Andrew’s Church
Another quaint church which is named after the patron saint of Scotland.
It is near the radio station.
There are many homestays and hotels in Kurseong, including a couple of 5-star properties.
That’s the Kaizer Valley Hotel.
That’s all.
Part 2 will cover my journey to Darjeeling as well as the amazing things to see and do there.
