Crossing the 17th Parallel: A Line That Once Split a Nation

Between the misty mountain peaks of Sapa and the calm waters of the Mekong lies a silent line once drawn in war—now crossed in peace by the quiet wheels of a cyclist.

Crossing the 17th parallel had been on my bucket list ever since I began cycling through the incredible landscapes of Vietnam. Back in 2022, on my first cycling adventure in the country, I had planned to ride from Hanoi to Hue. Unfortunately, a typhoon forced me to cut the journey short at Hà Tĩnh, and I had to take a 400 km bus ride from there to Hue—leaving a significant stretch of my route unfinished.

The 17th parallel holds deep historical significance. Established by the Geneva Accords of 1954 following the First Indochina War, it marked the dividing line between North and South Vietnam. This temporary military boundary ran along the Bến Hải River, stretching from the Laotian border to the South China Sea. On one side stood the communist North led by Ho Chi Minh; on the other, the anti-communist South under Ngo Dinh Diem. At the center of this division stood the Hiền Lương Bridge—painted blue on the northern side and yellow on the southern side—visually symbolizing the ideological rift that split the country until reunification in 1975.

Over the years, I returned to Vietnam four more times, exploring different parts of this beautiful and resilient nation. But the missing link—cycling across the 17th parallel—remained unfinished business. So, in September, I returned for my fifth visit, this time with a clear mission: to complete the ride I had started years ago and cycle the entire length of Vietnam, from the misty mountains of Sapa in the north to the border town of Châu Đốc in the south—a journey of over 3,000 km. The plan was to take a bus to Hà Tĩnh from Hanoi, pick up where I had left off, and ride all the way to Hue—finally bridging the gap and turning the dream into reality.

The ride from Hà Tĩnh to Hue was both physically challenging and emotionally rewarding. As I pedaled southward, I couldn’t help but reflect on how far I had come—both in distance and in my connection to Vietnam. The route took me through quiet fishing villages, lush countryside, and stretches of coastline where the sea shimmered under the tropical sun. The heat was intense, often soaring past 35°C, but the thought of finally crossing the 17th parallel kept me going.

Reaching the Bến Hải River and seeing the Hiền Lương Bridge in person was a powerful moment. I parked my bicycle and took a few minutes to soak in the surroundings. Here, history wasn’t just something written in books—it was tangible, visible in the preserved guard towers, the nearby war museum, and the bridge itself, still painted in its symbolic two-tone colors. Standing there, I could imagine what it must have felt like to live on either side of the divide, separated by ideology and war.

Crossing that bridge on my bicycle felt like more than just a tick off a bucket list—it was a tribute to the resilience of a nation and a personal milestone years in the making. From that point on, every kilometer I rode felt lighter, the burden of unfinished business finally lifted.

#1: September 23 – Hanoi : Hotel to Bus Station

After a few days soaking in Hanoi’s charm, I made my way to the southern bus station, about 10 km from the city center. This terminal handles all southbound routes. I found a bus heading to Hà Tĩnh. In Vietnam, most buses charge an additional 50% of the ticket price to transport bicycles. After purchasing my ticket and loading the cycle into the bus’s hold, we were on our way.

A light drizzle followed us through most of the 300 km, four-hour ride. But by the time we arrived in Hà Tĩnh, the skies had cleared and the sun was out. Along the route, I recognized several landmarks from my 2022 trip—spots where I had stopped to take photos—bringing on a vivid sense of déjà vu.

Distance: 10.31 km
Time: 48m 30s
Elev Gain: 0 m
Stay: Ancient Lane Hotel, Hanoi
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12480672448

#2: September 23 – Hà Tĩnh : Bus Station to Hotel

On arrival, I decided to check into the same hotel I had stayed at before. By a stroke of coincidence, I was even given the exact same room again.

After settling in, a few distant spires caught my eye. Intrigued, I checked Google Maps and discovered they were churches. That was reason enough to extend my stay by a day and set out to explore them the following day.

Distance: 4.39 km
Time: 17m 57s
Elev Gain: 4 m
Stay: Ngan Ha Hotel, Hà Tĩnh
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12482860661

#3: September 24 – Around Hà Tĩnh

Within a 5 km radius, I visited eight large, beautifully designed churches—each showcasing its own distinct charm and architectural style.

Just behind my hotel was a small park featuring a prominent statue of Trần Phú, the first General Secretary of the Communist Party of Vietnam. While exploring the area, I came across a group of locals making rice pancakes—thin, delicate sheets used to prepare Bánh Mướt, a regional delicacy.

Distance: 34.38 km
Time: 4h 27m
Elev Gain: 84 m
Stay: Ngan Ha Hotel, Hà Tĩnh
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12490197469

#4: September 25 – Hà Tĩnh to Kỳ Anh

Rested and ready, I set out to complete the final 350 km of my journey and cross the 17th parallel. The ride to Kỳ Anh was pleasant, with smooth roads winding along a scenic stretch of coastline. The only real challenge was the intense heat. Along the way, I paused to admire and photograph several more magnificent churches, each one adding to the richness of the journey.

The real highlight came when I checked into the Happy Hotel in Kỳ Anh. The receptionist didn’t speak English, so I used Google Translate to book a room. As I was gathering my bags, another staff member approached and, to my surprise, asked, “Fala português?”—“Do you speak Portuguese?”

For those unfamiliar, Goa—the little paradise in India that I call home—was under Portuguese rule for over 450 years until 1961. As a result, Portuguese is one of the many languages I speak fluently.

The next morning, just as I was about to leave, she came by to say goodbye and introduced herself as Maria. She told me she had worked in Angola for ten years, where she learned Portuguese, and had recently returned to Vietnam after having a baby. Interestingly, even the hotel’s watchman had worked in Angola and spoke a bit of Portuguese as well.

Distance: 78.49 km
Time: 6h 12m
Elev Gain: 150 m
Stay: Ngan Ha Hotel, Hà Tĩnh and Happy Hotel, Kỳ Anh
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12499189390

#5: September 26 – Kỳ Anh to Hoàn Lão

Today’s ride took me mostly along the highway, passing through quaint villages and endless stretches of rice fields. Along the way, I stopped at several temples, pagodas, and churches to take in the local culture and architecture.

Distance: 73.79 km
Time: 6h 28m
Elev Gain: 201 m
Stay: Happy Hotel, Kỳ Anh and Phuong Hong Hotel, Hoàn Lão
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12507962219

#6: September 27 – Hoàn Lão to Quảng Bình

This ride was shorter than usual as I needed some rest; the scorching heat was killing. A major portion of the ride took me along a newly constructed coastal road, and for kilometers, I was the only one on it. The highlight was crossing a makeshift wooden bridge over a river, which added a unique touch to the otherwise quiet ride.

Distance: 16.77 km
Time: 1h 30m
Elev Gain: 94 m
Stay: Phuong Hong Hotel, Hoàn Lão and Manli Resort, Quảng Bình
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12513488388

#7: September 28 – Quảng Bình to Hồ Xá

Leaving the hotel, I passed two important landmarks.

The first was the Quảng Bình Church Remains. Originally built by the French in the late 19th century during their colonial rule, the church was heavily damaged during the Vietnam War, when the region endured intense bombing due to its strategic location. Today, only parts of the façade, a few standing walls, and the bell tower remain—silent witnesses to both history and resilience.

The second was Ho Chi Minh Square, a cultural and historical site honoring President Hồ Chí Minh and the sacrifices of the Quảng Bình people during Vietnam’s struggle for independence. Inaugurated on June 13, 2020, the square features a bronze statue of the President atop a 3-meter-high stone pedestal, dressed as he was during his 1957 visit to Quảng Bình. Around him are sculpted figures representing local citizens from all walks of life, gazing at him with respect. The square serves as a meaningful gathering space for locals and visitors alike, offering reflection and remembrance.

Distance: 71.26 km
Time: 5h 40m
Elev Gain: 116 m
Stay: Manli Resort, Quảng Bình and Hotel Phuong Nam, Hồ Xá
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12522122093

#8: September 29 – Crossing the 17th Parallel

Bucket list: CHECK
Crossing the 17th parallel had been on my bucket list ever since I began cycling through Vietnam’s incredible landscapes. About 10 km after leaving the hotel, I spotted the tall flag tower in the distance, the Vietnamese flag still flying proudly—the Hiền Lương Bridge was now in sight.

Though modest in length at just 165 meters, crossing the bridge was a moment of immense significance and joy. It marked the near-completion of my journey across the length of Vietnam.

Since reunification in 1975, the bridge and its iconic flagpost have been preserved as national monuments. Today, they stand as powerful reminders of the country’s turbulent history and hard-won unity. The flag still soars—proud and unwavering, a tribute to the resilience of the Vietnamese people.

Distance: 38.34 km
Time: 4h 10m
Elev Gain: 106 m
Stay: Hotel Phuong Nam, Hồ Xá and Mekong 2 Hotel, Dong Ha
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12529636755

#9: October 1 – Dong Ha to Hue – Mission Accomplished Cycled the length of Vietnam – North to South

After crossing the 17th parallel, I checked into the Mekong Hotel and stayed an extra day. I hired a motorcycle guide to visit the Ta Con Airport Relic Museum, located about 60 km away near the Laos border. Once a key U.S. military base during the Khe Sanh Campaign (1966–1968), it was part of the McNamara Line aimed at halting North Vietnamese infiltration.

Now an open-air museum, the site preserves restored trenches, bunkers, and command posts. It also displays war relics including C-130s, CH-47 Chinooks, tanks, and artillery. Exhibits of photos, documents, and personal belongings offer a powerful glimpse into wartime lives. The museum is a moving tribute to Vietnam’s turbulent past.

The next day, with just 100 km left to complete my journey, I cycled toward Hue. On the way, I visited the Quảng Tri Citadel—once the provincial capital and a key stronghold during the war. Its remnants offer insight into the area’s violent history.

Nearby, I stopped at Truong Son National Cemetery, the largest war cemetery in the world, honoring over 10,000 soldiers who built and defended the Ho Chi Minh Trail during the American War. Thirteen heroes, including two women, are buried in a special section. Others are grouped by region and province. While many bodies were moved here after reunification, thousands of graves remain empty—symbols of Vietnam’s 300,000 missing soldiers. The cemetery is a solemn reminder of the war’s heavy toll.

As I approached Hue, I passed across several private temples, beautifully adorned with intricate ceramic designs that glistened in the afternoon sunlight.

My ride ended at the Hue Citadel, a grand fortress and former imperial capital built between 1804 and 1833. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s famed for its moats, walls, and majestic structures like the Imperial City and Forbidden Purple City. Despite damage during the 1968 Tet Offensive, it remains a symbol of Vietnam’s cultural legacy.

Distance: 96.40 km
Time: 7h 58m
Elev Gain: 130 m
Stay: Mekong 2 Hotel, Dong Ha and Golden Star Hotel, Hue
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12547286001

#10: October 3 – Early Morning back in Hanoi

Having completed the final missing section of my journey, I took a bus back to Hanoi. The nearly 15-hour ride was uneventful, and I arrived early in the morning. Since hotel check-in wasn’t until 1pm, I decided to cycle around and explore the city, which was already buzzing with early-morning energy.

Around Hoàn Kiếm Lake, the atmosphere was vibrant and infectious. People of all ages were out walking, exercising, and dancing. I watched a group of women in traditional Áo Dài gracefully performing a fan dance, while nearby, another group near the Lê Thái Tổ statue jived enthusiastically to modern Western music. Others played đá cầu, a popular street game in Vietnam, similar to badminton but played with a weighted shuttlecock and one’s feet.

Under the shade of a banyan tree near the Đền Bà Kiệu Temple, a group of men worked out in a makeshift open-air gym, adding to the diverse tapestry of morning activity. Meanwhile, women vendors with fresh fruit and colorful flowers loaded onto their bicycles crisscrossed the city, eagerly looking for early-morning customers.

At the same time, the city was being spruced up and decorated for Vietnam’s 70th Independence Day celebrations. Hanoi was buzzing—a perfect blend of tradition, movement, and national pride.

Distance: 13.14 km
Time: 2h 6m
Elev Gain: 10 m
Stay: Ancient Lane Hotel, Hanoi
Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/12561520586