Riding the Bamboo Train in Battambang: Cambodia’s Quirkiest Rail Adventure
Battambang, a city often overshadowed by the tourist hotspots of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, is full of quiet charm, rich history, and one of the most unique experiences you’ll find in Southeast Asia — the legendary Bamboo Train, or Norry (derived from the French word for lorry).
I had the chance to ride this fascinating contraption during my time in Battambang, and it turned out to be one of the memorable highlights of my Cambodian adventure.
What Exactly Is the Bamboo Train?
Imagine a flat bamboo platform balanced on two axles, powered by a small motorcycle or tractor engine with a belt drive connected directly to the axle, hurtling down an old railway track at speeds of up to 40 km/h. That’s the Bamboo Train in a nutshell. It might sound like a makeshift amusement ride, but it was once a vital transportation system for rural communities in post-war Cambodia.
Following the collapse of the Khmer Rouge regime, much of the country’s infrastructure, including railways, lay in ruins. Locals, ever resourceful, devised these lightweight trains to move people, livestock, and supplies between villages.
Where to Ride It Now
While the original line that ran just outside Battambang city was closed in recent years due to the revival of the national railway system, a new tourist-friendly track was established near Phnom Banan, about 15 kilometers from the city center.
This modern version still captures the spirit of the original — a breezy, open-air ride through lush rice fields and dusty countryside roads, all on a rickety platform that seems like it shouldn’t work, but somehow does.
The Experience
The ride is about 4 kilometers long (round trip), taking roughly 30 minutes. Halfway through, the train stops at a small village where you can chat with locals, browse souvenirs, or sip on a fresh coconut before the return journey.
The price is typically between $5 to $10 per person, depending on group size and your bargaining skills. Each train is operated by a local who not only runs the engine but also helps disassemble the train when another one is coming from the opposite direction — yes, the tracks are single-use, so someone has to give way!
What to Expect
- No seats – just sit cross-legged or stretch out on the bamboo platform. Some rides offer cushions for a bit of comfort.
- No shade – bring a hat and wear sunscreen. The Cambodian sun can be intense.
- Lots of laughter – especially when two trains meet and you hop off so your train can be lifted off the tracks.
- Incredible scenery – the green fields, grazing cattle, and glimpses of rural life are picture-perfect.
- A bit of noise – the engine can be loud, so don’t expect a quiet, meditative ride.
A Ride Through Time
More than just a fun ride, the Bamboo Train is a symbol of Cambodia’s resilience and creativity. Though now operated mainly for tourists, it preserves a unique slice of post-war Cambodian history. It also offers an authentic way to see the countryside and support local families who maintain and operate the trains.
If you’re headed to Battambang, don’t miss this quirky adventure. It’s a ride that combines innovation, nostalgia, and a whole lot of fun — and you’ll likely step off grinning from ear to ear.
Tip: Go in the late afternoon when the light is golden, the air is cooler, and the countryside is bathed in a warm glow — perfect for photos and a magical experience.
My Strava route to the Battambang Bamboo Train
on Thursday, December 5, 2024
